Archive for January, 2012

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2012

January 31, 2012

With couture it’s possible to put aside the need for wearability and to appreciate instead the imagination and sheer artistry this collection has. Yes, this was most obviously an homage to Amy Whinehouse but with more Parisian edge than she ever had. In this large collection there seemed to be an endlessly creative play on a number of themes, the corset of course, the slouchy dishevellment that created several asymmetrical shoulder lines, lace, yes, but sassily treated, and the deconstructed tailoring which was a highlight for me. Gaultier does colour and drama and sex so well.

Source: Style.com

Valentino Couture Spring 2012

January 31, 2012

Where to start? Some lovely old granny somewhere needs her curtains, sofas and nighties back! I have rarely seen such an array of nasty patterns, so much floral, frill and lace is my idea of hell. The loafers don’t help make this look modern or wearable.  I’m sure the workmanship is incredible and every element as exquisite as possible, but for me Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri still haven’t been able to showcase  what the Valentino name stands for.

Source: Style.com

Elie Saab Couture Spring 2012

January 30, 2012

I know, I know! It’s not ground breaking, it’s not unexpected, it’s not  high art, but it’s so pretty! This dresses are for the A-lister  and nobody much else but I refuse to criticise just because Elie Saab has a particular skill and sticks to it. To turn my fashion nose up at it would be to underestimate the joy of going through this collection and revelling in the lightness with which he constructs clothes, the perfect variations he makes in line and detail.  Lots of mere non fashion mortals don’t understand couture because it doesn’t translate into immediate trends but everyone can appreciate these dresses for their beauty and quality.

Source: Style.com

Givenchy Couture Spring 2012

January 30, 2012

You have to admire Riccardo Tisci as a fashion visionary, even if you don’t always understand him.  Taking his themes from some pretty obscure 1920s films and presenting the collection somewhat bizarrely in what appears to be a gym, complete with odd and distracting basketball, the sombre colours were hardly likely to inspire you to freshen your spring wardrobe for next year, even if the white looks were layered over (cashmere) tank tops.  Being couture, and being Tisci, the craftsmanship was extraordinary, with individual crocodile scales apparently having been separated, numbered, worked on and reattached……   And the back views are lovely.  I also didn’t understand what the nose rings and enormous earrings brought to the party; in fact I’m not sure there anything so frivolous as a party to be had.

Source: Style.com

Armani Prive Couture Spring 2012

January 29, 2012

Still inspired by the shimmery fabrics that seem to have caught his attention for the last couple of seasons, Giorgio Armani presented a collection that was all about texture, contrasting smooth finishes with mesh, satin surfaces with reptilian scaliness. In the shapes too he mixed softly conceived pieces with sharp tailoring, although it seemed as though there were more trouser and skirt suits than is usual for couture.  The palette seemed to come from the earth and foliage, with some hard-to-carry off greens. As ever with the Prive collection, expect to see versions of the full length dresses on a red carpet soon.

Source: Style.com

Chanel Couture Spring 2012

January 29, 2012

Lagerfeld gave us every imaginable shade of blue in every imaginable finish, be it fabric, beading, embroidery, plastic, but all of it rather cold and soulless and oddly sexless. I much preferred the leaner silhouettes, but there were also lots of heavy horizontal lines, with pockets set in slouchily at mid-thigh, plus big shoulder-wide collars and bell sleeves. Unlike the usual Chanel bonanza this was a surprisingly pared down presentation despite the electrocuted hair.

Source: Style.com

Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2012

January 29, 2012

Although I have to question whether it is ever acceptable to open a fashion show with a white milk bottle and close it with a mauve one, overall I think this collection is light and chic. I love the mix of black and white, textured against sheer, and then the splash of colour that came out with the looks at the end.  It has a wide appeal for young and old, especially those not afraid of the ultra feminine bow.Tomboys need not apply.

Source: Style.com

Christian Dior Couture Spring 2012

January 27, 2012

I feel like I have seen this before and perhaps better. I didn’t think it was the most cohesive collection, swinging as it did from referential fifties shapes, black roses and all, through nineties ladies who lunch, up to date with sheers over underwear, and back to full ballroom gowns. There wasn’t a spring lightness to them, with only three looks out of forty-one in a bright colour (red), this collection had a dullness to it .  The fashion press are saying that Bill Gaytten has laid down a marker for being considered a serious contender to replace Galliano and certainly he delivered a show where the workmanship was as amazing as ever but I would still be drawing up a short list.

Source: Style.com

Versace Couture Spring 2012

January 27, 2012

I read a review about this collection saying that it was destined for the red carpet…..I would like to know where and who? I welcome Versace back to Paris’s couture arena but this was not a massive highlight for me. I loved some of the materials, the hints of metal and the beading, but the shapes felt a little like Armani Prive couture collection from 2010 with its elliptical shapes. I thought the greys were just as unforgiving as the citrus shades and although the cutting was designed to flatter a gym-honed body I found the effect rather hard and perhaps a little tacky? Altogether a little underwhelming.

Source: Style.com

Editorial

January 19, 2012

After the Italian Vogue Karlie Kloss disaster, this editorial of her makes me smile. Taken from Vogue Germany and shot by Alexi Lubomirski, this shoot is gorgeous. I love the Asian feel, the exotic setting, the fresh flowers, the steamy, almost scented atmosphere. The styling and make up are both pretty full on but there is a simplicity about her face and her modelling that adds just the right amount of restraint. The dog is amazing too and reminds of the children’s story my Mum used to read to me called ‘What-a-Mess’.

Source: FashionGoneRogue


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