The long four weeks of shows have come to an end in Paris. My favourite collection from there was Haider Ackermann, which I will post on separately. I also loved Jean Paul Gaultier, who always brings something creative and thought-provoking to the party. I could dwell on Stefano Pilati’s departure from YSL, and Raf Simons’s somewhat tearful one from Jil Sander, but I think this pick of what I consider to be the best looks will be the more digestible.
These are my pick of the best looks from the the collections shown in Milan this week, of which my favourite were definitely Etro and Alberta Ferretti.
Source: Style.com
With the focus having now moved to the continent, and better late than never, these are my favourite looks from the huge number of shows that happened in London over Fashion Week:
And the worst….
Source: Style.com
How does Mary Katranzou come up with these dynamic concepts each season and produce another stunning collection of patterns and shapes? It’s concept fashion and I love it. This time she added some ruffled and billowing chiffon and sometimes kept to one particular colour within a dress, elsewhere the palette was gorgeously mixed. It’s extraordinary that the objects she finds to inspire such beautiful prints are often so mundane: you can see clocks, telephones, typewriters and tassels, cutlery, pencils, hedges and grass, developed into a geometry of pattern that is extraordinarily displayed across the tailoring. It is the kind of fashion theatre I love. A small quibble, but I have to say I don’t love the dark flick on the eyes which really doesn’t work on lots of the models’ faces.
Source: Style.com
There was something of a dog theme to this show, with the arched heads of greyhounds used as a motif and they also appeared on the heels of the models’shoes. This idea was carried through in the leash theme of several looks, with their high collars, belts, often worn above a peplum, and also in the silver eyelets cut into the fabric of dresses and jackets, which were very effective and interesting. There was a lot of black to start with, softened with some grey and cream, and then some maroon and airline blue. I thought the hair was a little too severe.
The invitation to this show had burnt holes in it but that was just a small hint at how beautiful this effect would look when used on fabric. Although some of the shapes were not for me, the materials and fabrics were stunning, not only this signature one, but also laser cut satins, subtly dyed feathers and metallic lace. The look was part buttoned up sheltered lady, part damsel in distress. I love how damaged and fragile these dresses look, and yet from the softenss comes great fashion drama.
Source: Style.com
This video is the complete Burberry show but for me the highlight comes from 15 minutes in with the stunning finale.
I was lucky enough to have a great seat in Goldsmiths’ Hall for this show so I was looking forward to some good pictures until I was thoroughly upstaged and I think the first picture speaks for itself about my then somewhat restricted view! So I apologise for the below average photos of what was, in fact, a great collection, and I have put some images at the bottom to make up for it.
Vivenne Westwood has always been identified with British design, and national identity is at the heart of this season’s Red Label, reinforcing many of the familiar features: the plaids and the City stripes, the knits and the jersey, and in the mix of Edwardian tailoring with twisting and wrapping, but the whole collection came off as more sophisticated than sometimes in the past. The colours were nicely autumnal with rusty reds, mauve, grey greens and I think it will feel very wearable come next autumn.
Source: Style.com
This was at Goldsmith Hall in Westminister, a beautiful venue where a number of shows were held this week. Ashley Isham sent down a big collection covering day and evening wear, using a full range of leather, jersey, lace, metallics and floral prints in some subtle and wellmatched colours. The models’ super high gloss red lips looked really strong under the lights.
Haider Ackermann A/W12 Paris
March 13, 2012Given the fawning nature of much of fashion, it is perhaps surprising that not all shows receive a standing ovation. Haider Ackermann’s was one of the few. Going through his collection is a pleasure and full of skill. I wish more actresses had the attitude and courage to wear his looks on the red carpet a la Tilda Swinton. His colour palette is one of dreams with maroon, turquoise, bronze, berry, cobalt and chocolate. He layers, drapes and wraps to perfection, softening here and toughening up there.
Source: Style.com
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