avogueidea

Get the Cossack hats out, ladies, Temperley has gone to Russia. Taking place at the Institute of Civil Engineers with its crystal chandeliers and painted ceiling, it did feel like a Romanov princess could have danced with a King here. The silhouette was lean and flattering, elevated with wonderful embroidery and beautiful beading; the colours mostly pale with red and blue highlights. Metallics and chunky Mawi jewellery completed the look and added the edge.

This collection was both strong and simple, delivering clean lines without affectation.  There was perhaps a little more colour, the usual great cutting, especially in his use of leather, and some good relaxed suiting, the models tucking their wide legged trousers into slouchy boots for a less working-woman look. The music though was oddly eerie as if something dark was taking place.

Sometimes it’s difficult to interpret into words the multiple combinations of cut, seaming, fabric and detail visible on the clothes close up, but I think my photos below give a pretty good idea.  This was a collection with a lot going on.  Ok, it was mostly all in black, but silks, satins, sheers, matts, knits and lace were all combined with big-scale belts, heavy footwear, kooky bags to create quite a show.  There was an interesting contrast between the big voluminous body-disguising looks and the clingy dresses and trousers with flashes of skin although neither particularly wearable.

When the first model came out wheeling a bike, you knew you were in for something unconventional, which is what we were given, what with the bodies worn with just tights, the nappy pants, the bonnets, but aside from these challenges there was some clever draping, some chic dresses, good collar details on coats and although the collection relied on black, white and grey, the one pattern was flattering and the splashes of green looked fresh.

So, this was the first show for me this LFW on Friday and it was good to be back at Somerset House. Bora Aksu’s colour palette was a good start and the warm pinks, peach and orange will be very welcome come the autumn. He likes to focus on cocktail and day dresses, this time with a hint of the governess about them, and the interesting ways in which they were constructed reflect his ‘romance with a twist’ byline, adding both detail and drama.

It has been a very busy weekend for me with lots of shows and presentations.  It all ends tomorrow and I can start editing, writing and posting my photos. As always it’s been five full on days of typical London mayhem, mixing the truly creative with the mad world of the whacky wannabes.